Staffing Across America North for ABB 2005: Day 34 -- Alphabet soup in WI . . . on highways "D," "H," "J," "O," "P," and across "VVV"

July 23, 2005

ROUTE: Wisconsin Dells to Fond du Lac, WI

DISTANCE: 84 miles

WINDS: Nothing to speak of in AM; increased to 8 to 10 mph crosswind/ headwind in early afternoon

WEATHER: Overcast all day; thunderstorm in PM

TERRAIN: Gently rolling farmland

TOTAL CLIMBING: 2240 feet

RIDE OVERVIEW: The day started out overcast and remained so until early afternoon when a thunderstorm swept through Fond du Lac . . . just after the last riders safely tucked into the hotel. The overcast was a blessing as we've been experiencing high temps and humidity, which wilt even the most determined riders and leave me a puddle. After a leisurely breakfast at Perkins Family Restaurant (where the servers really knew their stuff, quickly taking orders and bringing out orders), riders rolled out to cover the day's route, which took them along beautiful country roads in the Wisconsin countryside. I rode Sweep today and enjoyed a leisurely tour on these scenic, undemanding roads.

The talk of the day was figuring out how to get in early enough to watch Lance race the time trial on OLN. We've been following Le Tour at most of the stops since reaching Minnesota and Wisconsin. (Thank you motel staff for upgrading to our favorite July channel.) We got in just in time to see Lance start and watched nervously as he snaked his way though the crowds who lined the route. You could hear a cheer go up from all the rooms when he won the TT and increased his lead on the competition to 4 min, 40 sec. . . . now for the news.

Today we rode to Fond du Lac, which name is a French adaptation for "bottom of the lake," or more precisely "lower end or foot of the lake." This city is located at the south end of Lake Winnebago one of the largest fresh water lakes in the country, measuring 28 miles long and over 10 miles wide. I found it interesting that when Lake Winnebago freezes over in the winter, they plow the snow and make roads that crisscross the lake. They even put up street signs! Nifty idea . . . if you don't like where the roads go this year, wait until they melt and build new ones next year. They probably build the roads to the good fishing spots. In winter I've heard that the lake can resemble a small town with its ice fishing shacks, roads, and vehicles.

Lake Winnebago is not very deep (only about 21 feet), but it holds the largest sturgeon population in the world. Now Mike's story is that according to locals, the sturgeon is a finicky fish that's hard to catch. Regular fish bait doesn't work most of the time, but the locals have found green peas to be the bait of choice for the discriminating sturgeon palate. Seems the fishermen sprinkle the peas along the shoreline and when the sturgeon come up to take a pee, they hit them on the head with a mallet . . . sounds pretty sneaky to me, but it works for the locals in the know. [Oh, I get it. ]

Mike is also fond of relating that the Winnebago tribe for whom the lake is named are one of the most intelligent of the Native American tribes. They were friendly to the white settlers after coming to grips with the realization that it was inevitable that they would settle in the area. Mike got to thinking about that and decided that the Winnebagos were smarter than first thought . . . and they got the last laugh. They invented and mass produced the vacation motor home to sell to the white man so they would leave Wisconsin during the winter months. Pretty clever if you ask Mike. Saved all the sturgeon fishing for the natives. [ha ha hee hee ]

The Fond du Lac area sports the well-known Wild Goose State Trail, a 34-mile Rails-to-Trails multi-use trail of compacted limestone screenings, and the 31-mile Mascoutin Valley State Park Trail. Also in Fond du Lac is the historic Octagon House, a national landmark built in 1856 to be an Indian fort and later used in the underground railroad. Originally the home of one of Fond du Lac's first mayors and rumored as a still for moonshine, this 12 room Orson Fowler home has a colorful past. Architecturally unique, it features 9 passageways and a hand-dug underground tunnel. I did not get a photo of the Octagon House, but here's a photo (top left) of an interesting old octagon barn that I took on yesterday's route.

Barb & Box set up SS#1 at mile 34 in Montello near a Kwik Trip and at a beautiful little park with waterfalls and nesting swans. Karen set up SS#2 at mile 60 in a grassy area with picnic tables near a Subway sandwich shop in Ripon. The subway shop did a booming business because most riders arrived between 11 and noon. Too bad Subway is no longer giving stamps toward a free sub. I had a half-filled card and got 40 cents off for each stamp. My turkey sub and large lemonade cost less than $2.

It was a day for chance meetings: At SS#1 Dianne & Howard met Jon Matthew, a person for whom both she and Howard had worked in the past. He was across the street buying something and thought he'd come over and see where the cyclists were going. Then, when the two were in Princeton having an ice cream at a shop on the main drag, they came upon Cheryl Dittmer. Cheryl has been following the ride, but the meeting was unplanned. These chance encounters may have occurred because both Harringtons have ridden in this area and live only about half an hour north of our route.

After SS#1, I rode a bit with Dianne & Howard. Dianne filled me in on many interesting facts about our route and Wisconsin in general. She told me that the largest tree in the state is in Montello on the courthouse lawn, a cottonwood. She also told me that the little pine trees we were seeing painted on the road marked the route of the Northwoods Tour, a six-day ride of approx. 350 miles sponsored by a company called "Two Bicycles and a Map." Both she and Mary have ridden it. According to Dianne, the little cinderblock buildings we saw along the roadside today, were creameries at one time. Most were no longer in operation.

We are in a lovely Ramada Hotel in the city tonight. Riders are ready as usual for a break in the action when we cross the lake, but tomorrow we ride again, albeit a short 57 miles. We will sleep in tomorrow morning before another day on the road. Tune in tomorrow.

HEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY:

"Wow, this Sag Stop [SS#1] is beautiful!"
“This was a great relaxing riding day, one of those where you could ride leisurely side by side and talk . . . if you weren't on Hwy 23."
"Did you see those two sandhill cranes?" "Yes"; "Did you see those wild turkeys?" "Yes. One flew across the road right in front of us."; "Did you see those two groups of Guinea Hens?" "Yes." "And the goldfinches? . . ."
"Get up on the sidewalk, retard!" (When Dianne heard this yesterday, she wanted to stick out her tongue and reply: "You are what you say, so there!")

DUH! OF THE DAY: Guess I've gotta claim one. (Actually I should probably claim several as I did some pretty ditsy things today.) I was riding along chatting with Josh and sailed right past a turn. Continued chatting for a bit and then looked over and . . . no Josh. He'd made the turn . . . but was coming back to set me on the correct course. Understand Marie took a lot of flak from Mike for missing this same turn. Lighten up Mike. Even brilliant staff members (like moi, daahlinks) who have been over the route before missed it. This was my day for missing turns. I misread "P" as "I" (don't ask) so continued on "J." Got in 4 bonus miles. Was saved from a "3's a charm" wrong turn by Mike when I was so eager to turn out of the headwind on Hwy 23, that I began to turn a mile or so early. Mike, who was sitting in Silver near the intersection honked and threw up his hands. Darn, it's bad enough when no one is watching . . .

PHOTOS OF THE DAY:

A few minutes ago, those in this luggage line were
scratching and biting to be first in line . . . and then
they spotted Mike with his ubiquitous camera.