Day 23 -- Amber waves of grain . . .

July 12, 2005

ROUTE: Rapid City to Wall, SD

DISTANCE:57 miles

WINDS: 5 to 15 mph headwinds

WEATHER: HOT; relentless sun; little shade

TERRAIN: City streets, then rollers, first on a frontage road and then on I-90

TOTAL CLIMBING: 2,290 feet

RIDE OVERVIEW: We didn't load luggage until 8:30 this morning, which gave riders a chance to sleep in and gave staff a chance to get Big John to the airport and his bike to the bike shop to be shipped home. We will miss him, particularly those who could hang close enough to draft off him. John's slipstream was almost as good as a tandem's.

Riders had a choice of eating breakfast at the motel or cycling a little farther down the road to breakfast at a Perkins Family Restaurant. Some chose to eat two breakfasts. And some chose to eat breakfast after loading their luggage. But, regardless of when or where they ate, they were all on the road by 9 PM or so. Our route out of town this morning sounded like a military march--left, right, left, right, left, right--18 turns in the first 9.6 miles.  I came up behind Bob E. and we joked about running through three-quarters of our route sheet before getting out of town! 

Puff, puff, pant, pant, gasp, gurgle, aagggghhhha . . . SAG. Yep, I lasted only 35 miles on this my Float like a butterfly day. If I were the Wicked Witch of the West, I'd be a puddle now. I drank two full bottles of water at SS#1 (only one SS today) in New Underwood, and a short time later emptied one of my water bottles over my head, as did Philosopher John, who squirted one of his on me as I steamed (literally) down the road. . . all to no avail. My thermostat seems to be stuck on HOT, and every ounce of energy in my body is bent on trying to cool my engine. So, I threw in the towel and wussed out at mile 35 . . . 22 miles from Wall . . . wail. This is the third time I've sagged part of the route on this ride because of the heat. Pitiful. I hate that my body's gone bad on me, the traitor.

After we passed Ellsworth AFB and got on Hwy 1416/CR414, it was rock-and-roll all the way. Up and down the rollers we went on this highway that resembles a piece of ribbon candy. Many of the rollers were just too steep or too tall to allow riders to roll down one side and zip up the next. But there were also plenty that allowed for nearly effortless climbing. Then riders had about 20 miles of interstate before exiting at Wall. The other dominant items along our route were Wall Drug Store billboards.  We've been seeing them ever since we left Astoria, but now they appear every mile or so--something like the Stuckeys and fireworks signs on the east coast route to Florida or the South of the Border signs--though not as humorous or clever.  Each has it's own message, such as "Free Coffee to Honeymooners," or "Classic Western Art at Wall Drug."

I would like to know how much they've spent on advertising over the years as there must be a million signs all over the world pointing to this place. Mike says there's even one in France. It started out as a small drug store that was off the beaten path so it got little or no traffic.  It was the wife's idea to entice travelers with the offer of free ice water.  It caught on when the owner and a friend started putting signs out on the main road to advertise.  By the time they got back from putting out the first signs, people were lined up . . . that's the power of advertising.  Last year Mike says that the mayor told him that Wall Drug now has a $300,000 annual advertising budget . . . that's a lot of signs. Wall is just a spot on the road and would be more aptly named "Hole in the" Wall, but tourism keeps it going.  Only 818 people live in Wall, but the town can seat over three times that in their restaurants, and there's over 2,000 available motel rooms. 

The constant short climbs today were tiring after all the climbing riders did yesterday. But--joy!--the route was short and riders got in early enough to enjoy the new indoor pool at the motel or a cold concoction at the local DQ, which was only a block away, or--of course--Wall Drug's many shops. Last year, I expected an old-fashioned soda fountain and craved a cherry phosphate.  What I found was not an old fashioned drugstore, or even the mother of all drugstores. I found a block-long tourist trap, selling all manner of useless touristy things. But it was so kitschy that it was fun. I did find a soda fountain of sorts and food, too. But this year I passed up Wall's tourist priced food for a root beer float at DQ with Barb, Sue, Earring John, Chips, Greg and Linda.

We learned at Rap this evening that Keith and Craig will be leaving us. On hearing this, there was a collective gasp from the riders. We have all come to appreciate the humor and camaraderie of these brothers-in-law who are constantly verbally harassing each other in a fun way. However, Craig has been experiencing an elevated heart rate, so wisely has decided to return home and see his doctor about a solution. In his farewell speech, Craig conceded that his heart problems "are not the result of Keith's constant harassment."

Riders relaxed and took it easy when they got in today in preparation for the two long days ahead--Pierre (116 miles and 3,720 feet of elevation gain), and Chamberlain the day after (84 miles and 3,600 feet of elevation gain), Except for the heat, they should all do just fine because the get stronger and faster each day. Tune in tomorrow and see how we do.                               Susan

HEARD ON THE ROAD TODAY: 

• "By riding to the motel and registering first, you violated the cardinal rule of riding: 'Never pass a DQ without stopping.'"
• "What's with these rollers? They aren't anything like those on my trainer."
• Craig: "Know what we and Armstrong have in common?
  Keith: "No, what?
  Craig: "We're both on a retirement tour."
• "Joe, why does everyone you ride with end up going home?" [Joe started the tour with Kent, who broke his clavicle and had to go go home, and then Joe picked up riding with Keith and Craig, who are now leaving] 

PHOTOS OF THE DAY:

Murray befriended a very sour and suspicious looking card shark,
 but nearly lost his shirt because he couldn't keep a poker face

Brian got to the SAG stop but was confused when it was spelled backwards.

Arguably . . .

We saw this car in New Underwood. Hope they made it to
Wall without busting. What, BTW, does the license plate say?
 I can't decipher it--RRDGHD 8.

Fred traded in his bike saddle for a bronc saddle and proved
 he could ride the stuffing out of the bronco.

Craig and Keith poured on the charm, but found this woman, 
whom they tried to pick up at Wall Drug, a little stiff.